3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2011 Review

3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2011 runway

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2011 collection

SHOW: 3.1 Phillip Lim (See the full runway collection)

THEME: "A loitering presence”

ACCESSORIES: Oversize clutches, bucket bags and totes, chunky ankle boots, strappy metallic stilettos

HAIR: Odile Gilbert for Kérastase

MAKEUP: Lisa Butler for Nars, nails by CND

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: A modern, confident collection from the consistently chic Lim

Phillip Lim knows what women want to wear and he never fails to deliver. While many designers this season are channeling the ’90s, the ’70s, or myriad other specific inspirations, Lim presented a collection that was less referential and more modern—and all the more refreshing for it.

The show opened with a great twill coat and “fold-over” pants in rich cognac-colored lambskin (the fold being a deep pleat down the front of the leg—a great way to add volume without being overwhelming, even, one imagines, for those without sample-size proportions). The pants recurred throughout the show, often with different colors on either side of the fold, which created a clean colorblocked effect.

Lim played with materials for strong, textured outerwear: Some had leather sleeves, others fur pockets, and a buttonless trench closed with a narrow fur belt. Accessories, like colored leather totes, clutches, and sexy metallic stilettos, were similarly covetable.

For evening, Lim’s standout was a relaxed black jumpsuit with tightly beaded sleeves—model Irina Lazareanu, sitting front and center, lit up when it came down the runway. One can only imagine shoppers will have similar reactions when the whole collection hits sales floors.