Givenchy Fall 2012 Review


Photo: Imaxtree

Givenchy Fall 2012

SHOW: Givenchy (See the full collection.)

HAIR: Luigi Murenu

MAKE-UP: Pat McGrath

ACCESSORIES: Long, fitted kidskin gloves, narrow elongated purses like a structured nosebag, high boots with a flap of leather wrapping the leg

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: Crazy Horse meets Sighs and Whispers

As the soundtrack opened with galloping hooves and the lighting raced around in circles like a Grand National above the audience's heads, you knew Riccardo Tisci was on an equestrian trip for his Fall 2012 Givenchy collection. Or maybe that should be equestrienne—since his riders were definitely, defiantly female—from their thigh-high leather boots to the tips of their leather and wool shoulders.

Tisci was looking at '70s Guy Bourdin imagery alongside that horse-riding stuff—and, essentially, this collection was presented as a race between lingerie looks and Tisci's typically tough and edgy tailoring. The lingerie was soft, the tailoring was hard, there was lace and leather combined, alongside '70s-sharp color contrasts like baby-blue and vermillion, or scarlet, red and walnut. It was about contrasts, feminine and masculine fusing together with a kinky kick.

However, some of Tisci's eveningwear seemed to be lagging behind. The camisole tops and pleated slip skirts belted with leather looked a little flimsy next to the tough calfskin jackets and dresses, or the sleek capes and drape-thigh jodhpurs. These harder-edged pieces were the real crux of Tisci's vision, and definitely the ones women will be buying come fall.