Lanvin Fall 2012 Review


Photo: Imaxtree

Lanvin Fall 2012

SHOW: Lanvin (See the full collection.)

HAIR: Guido Palau

MAKE-UP: Pat McGrath

ACCESSORIES: Lion's head belts and chokers, oversized envelope clutches, sturdy, high-heeled black leather ankle boots

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: An unapologetic, unequivocal and riotous celebration of Alber Elbaz's ten-year reign

Celebration. That's what Alber Elbaz's rip-roaring Fall 2012 Lanvin show was all about. A celebration of his ten years at the helm of the house, for starters; a celebration of his distinct, defined style in dressing modern women too, but most of all a pure celebration of women, period. You could argue that's what his collections are always about—but here, it was amplified tenfold.

Elbaz's joy in his work is infectious. It infected not only the audience at this show—who by the end were so giddy they could barely stay in their seats—but the clothes too. If that implies party dressing, you'd be right. There were plenty of party frocks —but also a glut of daywear, from the opening emerald neoprene dress with demi-basque in front through to a succession of black looks exploring texture, each one more luxurious than the last yet utterly wearable.

The finale—a dozen exits on models vamping like eighties starlets, trussed up in ruffles, fur and exquisite spangles—was a pleasure to behold, as was Elbaz's unique finale, an off-key rendition of "Que Sera Sera" that left few dry eyes in the house. But the real wonder in this collection were the clothes themselves: wearable, wonderful, and adorable. We expect nothing less from Elbaz, one of the designers defining the twenty-first century as we live it.