Marni Fall 2012 Review

Marni Fall 2012

Photo: Imaxtree

Marni Fall 2012

SHOW: Marni (See the full collection.)

HAIR: Paul Hanlon

MAKEUP: Tom Pecheux

ACCESSORIES: Platform pumps with contrast toe caps, top-hand satchels and handbags with intarsio leather details

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: A graphic new era for Marni

Control and precision aren't exactly words you associate with the Marni look. Eccentric and exuberant, maybe—those are certainly the qualities embodied in the Italian house's H&M collaboration, due to be unveiled on March 8. Maybe it was refining the Marni look for masstige fans that sent Consuelo Castiglioni and her team off in a different direction for fall. Whatever the reason, they took this season as an opportunity to sharpen the label's signatures and offer a new message for Marni's legions of fans.

The silhouette was neat and to-the-knee, cut in firm wools and slick patent leather with a hint of the Sixties to it. Furs were inlaid to resemble houndstooth or dyed in hot shades of tomato to contrast against Lurex bouclé—just some of the textures in a grouping that included silk crepe, snakeskin, and three-dimensional floral sequins. The garments themselves felt innovative, too. For example, jackets were given a trompe l'oeil effect, with cargo pockets fused to a piece of mink. And the giant cape motif that opened the show was oft-repeated, but each time it felt like a breath of fresh air.

Granny style can sometimes get musty: this season marked a new string to Marni's bow, and a welcome evolution of the house aesthetic that has become so imitated (even by the likes of H&M).