Christian Dior Spring 2012 Review

kanye west spring 2012

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Christian Dior Spring 2012 show

Show: Christian Dior

Hair: Orlando Pita

Makeup: Pat McGrath

Accessories: High-heeled nude strappy sandals, Lady Dior bags in multiple hues and textures, nude cloche-style organza hats pulled low over one eye

Overall takeaway: Delicacy in the face of adversity—an easy, breezy collection in less-than-easy circumstances

Luxury good behemoth LVMH is holding off on naming a successor to John Galliano at Christian Dior—at least, for a few more weeks. An announcement is imminent, which left Bill Gaytten, the titular head of la Maison Dior, in an odd position at his latest ready-to-wear show. It was his sophomore show, but already a goodbye—his wave at the end seemed to be less about acknowledging the gracious applause and more about bowing out, equally gracefully.

Grace characterizes his Spring '12 collection, and while it didn't have the dazzle, heart-in-your-throat moments of his predecessor, it was a fine enough collection. Everyone has been examining mid-century couture, generally veering away from the '40s and '50s into a lighter evocation of '60s styles. Gaytten looked to those in his couture collection for Dior, which received decidedly mixed reviews. This time, he simplified, freshened up and focused.

There wasn't much to sink your teeth into as a critic at Dior, if truth be told. The dresses and suits were well-behaved and in the house's tradition—Dior himself would have adored the flashes of red ruffling organza and taffeta dresses, although perhaps he would have been puzzled by the preponderance of bags (as we all know, accessories are the meat-and-potatoes of the Dior machine). The gestures were subtle, delicate, especially when contrasted with Gaytten's couture calamities. But it was difficult to look on this show as anything other than a "greatest hits" collection pulled together to plug a seasonal gap before the next head of Dior is announced.