Miu Miu Fall 2011 Show Review

Miu Miu Fall 2011 collection

Photos: Imaxtree

Looks from the Miu Miu Fall 2011 collection

SHOW: Miu Miu (See the full runway collection)

THEME: Wartime Chic

ACCESSOIRES: Heavily frilled suede and leather platform shoes, oversize clutch-bags, rose-tinted goggle sunglasses

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: A triumphant Parisian parade of print, peplums and Victory Roll haircuts in plain view of La Tour Eiffel

Miuccia Prada may have explored the ’20s (via the ’60s) in her own label, but her Miu Miu line pitched itself decidedly in the ’40s: defined shoulders, clunky platform booties and Victory Roll haircuts. That's not to say the offering didn't look contemporary. Miu Miu's reinvented War Brides were reinvigorated, showing a new sophisticated look for this secondary Prada label.

Miu Miu's longer-line pencil skirts, heavier shoulders and knotted peplums looked more grown-up than usual. At the same time, Miuccia made a convincing pitch for shorter hemlines, offering oversize jackets as barely there outerwear over bare legs and high-heeled pumps. That looked like a sexy alternative daytime look, and certainly one in keeping with Prada's own-label push for the '60s. It also looked young—after all, that's the whole idea behind this little sister, titled after Mrs Prada's girlhood nickname.

But in the end it was the grown-up wartime chic that offered the more successful looks—printed silk crepe dresses, for example, tumbling to mid-calf managed to look vintage but not retro, the sort of pieces you would pluck from your wardrobe again and again. And the all-important accessories were stellar: those clunky platform, swimming-goggle sunglasses and a blown-up coin-purse as overscale clutch-bag. Kooky but instantly desirable. That's a concise summary of Miu Miu at its best, actually.