Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2013 RTW


Launch Slideshow

SHOW: Maison Martin Margiela, Spring 2013

THEME: Easy, breezy, beautiful

HAIR: Tousled half-buns

ACCESSORIES: Neutral-hued pumps, slim clutches, dramatic opera-length gloves, glasses, strappy heels

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: The days of wig coats are over, folks. Since the departure of its eponymous designer, the Maison Martin Margiela label has been edging ever closer to a more wearable, commercial aesthetic (see its upcoming H&M collaboration), and its Spring 2013 collection appears to have shrugged off much of the avant-garde trappings it was synonymous with.

If that sounds like a complaint, it's not. Indeed, it was hard to find fault with the beautifully tailored strapless dresses, pantsuits, and tunics—love those slits in the sleeves, by the way—that graced the runway in black and cloudy shades of cream, putty, and greige.

There were touches of whimsy, such as a structured capelet and a black top that was essentially a bow draped across the chests, and the latter portion of the show revealed slick metallic tunics, oversized sweetheart-neckline dresses, and sleeveless capes of varying proportions.

That theatrical edge still lingers, but the focus on the clothesí exquisite draping—rather than, say, bejeweled face masks or giant wigs—will surely open the label up to a wider audience. Letís just hope these newbies don't hog all the H&M goodies.