Trussardi Spring 2013 RTW

Launch Slideshow

SHOW: Trussardi, Spring 2013

THEME: Manhattan rooftop


ACCESSORIES: Satchel handbags, vintage-inspired suitcases, square-frame sunglasses, sculptural pillbox hars, lace-up platform sandals, oxford flats and heels.

OVERALL TAKEAWAY: In Umit Benan's version of the Big Apple, Manhattanites stray from their stereotypical all-black garbs in favor pastel yellow, brown python print, mustard-and-gray floral and burnt sienna.

For his third women's collection with Trussardi, Umit Benan sent his Italian-made creations down a New York-inspired runway (which may explain why some of the models carried suitcases rather than handbags). The set resembled a rooftop cocktail party, complete with lounge chairs and what looked like a Weber grill.

Ladylike frocks with full knee-length skirts, and gentlemanly double-breasted suit coats played against a graffiti-covered wall. There was even a hint of Jackie O's New York of the 70s with sophisticated white ensembles, turtlenecks, and square-frame sunglasses—not to mention a few pillbox hats thrown in for good measure.

If New Yorkers have been besieged by leather this fall, it doesn't look like things will change much come next spring. Benan, paying close attention to Trussardi's history in leather goods, added pliable versions of the material wherever he could; to pockets on otherwise leather-free dresses, to details on mixed media trenches, to shorts, bomber jackets, sleeveless tops, blazers, and cinched waist pants.

But perhaps his greatest use of the material was a midnight blue dress with a flared silhouette where the leather looked so supple you could almost see it catching the wind in Central Park.