Theory and Theyskens Theory Pre-Fall 2012

Theory Pre-Fall 2012

It may still be hard to wrap your head around the fact that Olivier Theyskens, the Belgian designer known for his gorgeous but far-from-commercial offerings at Nina Ricci and Rochas, is now at the head of Theory—a brand formerly best-known for its basic workwear.

But looking at Theory’s Pre-Fall collection, those two sides come together incredibly seamlessly. Instead of your basic white button-down (though there are those, too), blouses came in silk in some abstract prints, some geometric prints. The basic black blazer is sharp and white, with narrow sleeves and lapels that are meant to lie inward instead of folding out. And those most basic of work-worthy shift dresses are now in gorgeous buttery leather.

Theyskens Theory Pre-Fall 2012

A wardrobe that would be just as appropriate on a paralegal as a fashion editor? Must be no easy feat, but Theyskens has really nailed it.

Then, of course, there’s Theysken’s Theory, a separate brand where Theyskens gets the chance to flex his creativity a bit more. Hints of the drama he used to be known for at Rochas and Nina Ricci can be found here—like in completely sheer, beaded leggings (meant to be worn under corduroy shorts) and silk wide-leg palazzo pants in a dark, abstract print.

The cult following he’s cultivated in a few short seasons will also eat up the iridescent corduroy, leather mini-shorts, and super-soft, well-loved tees. But what really impressed me was the accessory selection, particularly the bags. Black and white frame bags with sleek silver hardware and enough compartments to please even the most organized and strike that perfect balance between day and night. We’ll take both!

Photos: Offerings from the Theory (top center) and the Theyskens Theory (bottom left) Pre-Fall 2012 collections.